Two days, two beautiful towns:
one bitterly cold, the other clear and bright
one on a weekend, the other a school strike
one a visit to a 2000-year old fort
the other, one of France's oldest active fishing ports….
You know I had no intention of this rhyming, but when I wrote the words, it just happened. I promise..no more poems!
Saturday - to Carcassone
We were so happy to have returned to Carcassone last weekend, after a fleeting visit during summer enroute to the Dordogne, at which time we caught just a glimpse of it's historic La Cite Medievale.
The fort of La Cite was originally built in 500BC by Celtics, strategically located at the intersection of two historic trade routes, from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean Sea, and from Spain to the centre of France. When the Romans conquered Gaul in around 100BC, a newer stronger fort was built, and it is these remains that still stand today.
The fort is truly majestic, and had it not been absolutely freezing on that Saturday, I'm sure would have seemed almost fairy-tale like. It's structure consists of 52 towers, and is surrounded by 3km of ramparts. It's stature, on a hill overlooking the countryside of the Languedoc region and the Pyranees in the distance, is awe-inspiring and almost intimidating. I'm not actually sure of how many battles occurred there, but as we walked around, we could certainly imagine a few, almost William Wallace-like conflicts and bloodshed.
We loved just walking and absorbing the history and feel of la Cite….
…..even a little modelling was done on the ancient ramparts. Work it kids, work it…
A highlight, or perhaps not, while touring inside La cite (which just to break the illusion you might currently have, is filled with cafes, hotels, restaurants and museums) was our visit to Le Musee d'Inquisition, definitely an M-rated event, yet offering a child entry.
I have never seen such a vivid and brutal display of artefacts, images and descriptions showing the many forms of torture used during the era of church-led inquisitions. I literally had to cover the children's eyes and redirect them to another part of the exhibition, only to come across an equally barbaric image. They happily closed their eyes and were led around by me, as I tried to make a game of it, find the exit and ensure they didn't see the images. So let's backtrack..a highlight…not, but historic and true, yes!
It was incredibly disturbing (children have come away unscathed), and incomprehisible that this type of fantatic leadership and barbarity really existed.
The device below intrigued me though, and was one of the less horrific..an instrument of torture for bad musicians, another for women who talked too much, or apparently just annoyed their husbands...a tad subjective don't you think? The others I shall not describe..think of the worst thing you can, and you won't be far off!
However, not all doom and gloom you will be pleased to know, chocolat chaud et beacuoup de bonbon were enjoyed by all!
Au revoir Carcassone!…..off to the (warm) train we go!
Thursday - to Sete
Careof a teachers strike last Thursday, we had a 2 day break in the middle of the week, as there is no school on Wednesdays in most parts of France…this may be about to change, hence the strike!
It seems the teachers and le Syndicat pour les Ecoles Primaires, are not keen on the idea of introducing a morning session of school on Wednesdays, even though it would mean shortening the school hours on the other 4 days...currently school finishes at 4.45pm, with the sun starting to set before we even get home.
The Minister of Education is arguing that morning education is more in line with the biology of children, ie.. their brains function better in the mornings. Might be true, but it's an argument that doesn't seem to be winning much support. Having said that, I don't think many arguments would gain much support…my feeling is that no school Wednesday is french tradition, and the french are great lovers of tradition! Anyway, watch this space.
But the upside of the strike, was an extra day to explore for us! So to Sete we went. We had passed Sete several times on the train, and considered visiting, but after learning that it had been established by Louis XIV in the 17th century, and that today it is France's largest Mediterranean fishing port, we were determined to go. It was like stepping into a different fish-smelling world, only 20 minutes by train from Montpellier.
Determined to seize the day, and make it back to Montpellier in time for my 1.30pm french lesson, we set off on an 8.20am train. While that may not seem particularly early to you, be mindful that for the last 14 weeks or so, we really haven't had to be up before then! A slight exaggeration, but with school only 20 metres down the road and not starting until 8.50am, our morning return has become somewhat 'relaxed'. My body and I will be in a for a rude shock when I rejoin my running pals twice a week at 6am!
In arriving into Sete before 9am, we had the wonderful fortune of seeing it almost at its best I think, with the early morning sun still reflecting on the buildings and water, it really was picture perfect.
Prior to visiting Sete, I had read that there are so many boats, that one would think every second resident owns one…that was not an understatement. They are literally everywhere, with both sides of the canal jam-packed with fabulous and colourful vessels, extending along to the main harbour. Will asked whether some of the boats would travel to Monaco..I replied that most of the them probably wouldn't be allowed into Monaco. They were truly humble fishing boats, some resembling large dinghys, much loved and much used! Not quite the luxury cruisers Will had been dreaming about since our trip to the Cote d'Azur.
As we ventured through the quaint winding narrow streets of Sete (a highlight in most of the towns we have visited), we chanced across the Sete cemetery, an absolutely beautiful resting place overlooking the port and Mediterranean Sea.
The cemetery has the honour of being the resting place of Paul Valery, a famous poet who lived in the south of France, and was born and raised in Sete. One of Montpellier's university campus' is named after him. As we walked toward the cemetery I explained to the children about Paul Valery, the connection with Montpellier etc…we have had many 'pearls' come out of Sam's mouth during this trip, but his sigh, followed by "Oh, poor Valery" was a highlight!
One of Paul Valery's most famous works is based on this cemetery, and is absolutely beautiful, entitled Le Cimiterie Marin or The Graveyard by the Sea. Here is just the first verse, but I have added the link as well, as definitely worth a longer look:
Le Cimiterie Marin
Ce toit tranquille, où marchent des colombes,
Entre les pins palpite, entre les tombes;
Midi le juste y compose de feux
La mer, la mer, toujours recommencee
O récompense après une pensée
Qu'un long regard sur le calme des dieux!
Quel pur travail de fins éclairs consume
Maint diamant d'imperceptible écume,
Et quelle paix semble se concevoir!
Quand sur l'abîme un soleil se repose,
Ouvrages purs d'une éternelle cause,
Le temps scintille et le songe est savoir.
Entre les pins palpite, entre les tombes;
Midi le juste y compose de feux
La mer, la mer, toujours recommencee
O récompense après une pensée
Qu'un long regard sur le calme des dieux!
Quel pur travail de fins éclairs consume
Maint diamant d'imperceptible écume,
Et quelle paix semble se concevoir!
Quand sur l'abîme un soleil se repose,
Ouvrages purs d'une éternelle cause,
Le temps scintille et le songe est savoir.
The Graveyard By The Sea
This quiet roof, where dove-sails saunter by,
Between the pines, the tombs, throbs visibly;
Impartial noon patterns the sea in flame
That sea forever starting and re-starting
When thought has had its hour, oh how rewarding
Are the long vistas of celestial calm!
Between the pines, the tombs, throbs visibly;
Impartial noon patterns the sea in flame
That sea forever starting and re-starting
When thought has had its hour, oh how rewarding
Are the long vistas of celestial calm!
What grace of light, what pure toil goes to form
The manifold diamond of the elusive foam,
What peace I feel begotten at that source!
When sunlight rests upon a profound sea,
Time's air is sparkling, dream is certainty, Pure artifice both of an eternal Cause.
The manifold diamond of the elusive foam,
What peace I feel begotten at that source!
When sunlight rests upon a profound sea,
Time's air is sparkling, dream is certainty, Pure artifice both of an eternal Cause.
(http://www.poemhunter.com/best-poems/paul-valery/the-graveyard-by-the-sea/)
The cemetery is home also to many Sete fishermen and their families. Some of the gravesites were so elaborate and truly honoured those who had toiled for generations at sea. As we admired many of the symbols and tributes (some tearfully), I asked the kids what symbol they would put on my gravesite, and Will's pretty immediate reply was "a devil's fork"…oh well, guess I shouldn't have got him up so early! We all laughed as the other 2 thought it was hysterical..while closer to the truth perhaps than an angel with a harp, I'm sure he'll still call me when he's older!
From the cemetery, we made our way down toward the main harbour of Sete, passing the Theatre de la Mer, the Theatre by the Sea, perfectly positioned overlooking the sparkling Mediterranean. It was formerly Fort Saint Pierre, built between 1743-1746, apparently following an attempted invasion by the English in 1710. It is now host to many spectacles and events, including the Sete Jazz Festival, and I'm sure many English performers.
As we walked, it was a time and a town just to absorb, with nothing really to do but watch, smell and listen. Or if you're 10 or under, just run, giggle and annoy your mother! While we didn't feel it was appropriate to take photos of fishermen in action, which I now regret, there were several fishing boats returning from their night out, blarry-eyed fishermen enjoying a chat and cigarette, cleaning their boats, their nets, their catch. I couldn't tell what they had caught, but Will assured me it was "fillets". To do list..take Will fishing when we get back to Melbourne..ok Grandpa?!
We only had a fleeting visit here, but it was worth it. Such a living, working gem, so different from its neighbours in the south of France. It's down-to-earth ness, lack of pretention, shops and tourist attractions (except for the spectacular Mediterranean) actually made this one of the highlights for me.
To Le Syndicat pour les Ecole Primaire…while I support the Minister's argument and hope Wednesday mornings are introduced in les Ecole Primaire in the future, we thank you for the day off school!
The fruits of their labour
